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A group of us from South Wale Mountaineering Club climbed Joe's Waterfall on the Black Mountain (Fan Brycheiniog) on Saturday and again on Sunday. Whilst water was trickling underneath the ice in places it was decent ice and will take screws. The lowest sections of the fall are good for a bit of ice bouldering. The main section on to the top of the ridge is about 15-20 meters in height of good solid ice. We felt that grade III (WI 3) was probably more realistic for this last section than the given II. However there are some good ledges on it on which to gain a rest. A set of nuts maybe useful for constructing a belay at the very top. We were able to make a decent top rope setup out of 2 nuts, 1 tricam, 1 screw, one sling round a block of ice and boulders and an abalokov thread.
There is a closed down pub near the start and you can park in the car park on the left side of the road (A4067). The main road is totally passable. It's about a 20 minute walk from there to the bottom of the route.'
Matt Moore
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Sounds quite doable, will have to try get there this week.
Grid references and details can be found here:
http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Winter_Climbs#The_Camarthen_Van
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