Sorry I've been out of posting for a while, had a few days heavy work. Here's a round up of conditions...
From 'oldstringbag' (UKC)
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SAT 28th. In reply to tipsy: We thrashed up an easy gully at Craig Carig Glasiad just north of Story arms, the veg was well frozen but would be better if we had a little more snow. Some melt a freeze is needed to bring this crag into best climbable nic. We drove past Craig Y Llyn on the way home and this looked to be more promising.
SUN 29th. We did a mixed line up the central depression at The Darren above Cwmyoy.We had an early start to avoid the sun which hits the crag by lunch time. It was 1V. We absailed down Son of Koflack which was forming nicly although the afternoon sun is a killer. The most left hand gully will be in by next wkend if nights stay cold.
From Sunday, thanks to Josh Waller
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Was up at RAC yesterday, not climbable, still far too much running water. The top section of the last pitch has frozen over nicely, and the bottom of the last ptich it starting to come together. Was about -3 up there at around 2pm. Practised v-threads on a flatish bit of ice rather than actual climbing. We left the hanging stuff how it was to give it a better chance of forming. I think about 2 days, unless it was particularly cold last night.
From Tuesday, thanks to Mike Mitchell (UKC)
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Torpantau falls. I was up there today. Conditions are very good. It is formed all the way to the bottom. So good we climbed it Twice. There is twice as much Ice as when I climbed it on 23 Dec last year and its still Nov.
Wednesday, 1 December 2010
Saturday, 27 November 2010
Conditions Report - Cadair Fawr/RAC Corner 27/11/10
Conditions Report from Peter Shepherd. Thanks Pete!
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Went out walking on Cadair Fawr as planned. Just about enough snow in a couple of places to demonstrate how to arrest, but it was all loose powder snow, so was bunching up under you rather than being able to get a good slide going.
Dropped past RAC on the way back. The roadside culvert route is not in yet, but its getting there. Mid afternoon temp was reading -2 on the car. A fair amount of ice around, but still a lot of water. Give it 2 days, I reckon.
Did see a pair of climbers at the bottom of the last pitch of the full stream route though, which does look to be in, and then spotted them by the style on the bottom fence as we were driving back past.
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Went out walking on Cadair Fawr as planned. Just about enough snow in a couple of places to demonstrate how to arrest, but it was all loose powder snow, so was bunching up under you rather than being able to get a good slide going.
Dropped past RAC on the way back. The roadside culvert route is not in yet, but its getting there. Mid afternoon temp was reading -2 on the car. A fair amount of ice around, but still a lot of water. Give it 2 days, I reckon.
Did see a pair of climbers at the bottom of the last pitch of the full stream route though, which does look to be in, and then spotted them by the style on the bottom fence as we were driving back past.
Conditions report - Pen y Fan 27/11/10
Conditions report- pen y fan 26/11/10
Been up pen y fan for a walk and explore around the n.face to see how things are shaping up this morning. Snow is thin on the ground at the base of the path from the resevoir car park but about half way up water is starting to freeze. Lots of blown snow and on the plateau at the top the north westerly slopes are scouring with small deposits in the lee. Patchy semi frozen turf above about 700m but nothing of note.
Summit is scoured with reasonbly substantial deposits in the path down to storey arms and descnt route to north face.
Gully lines have got reasonable accumulations but will need another week or so of cold temps for the ice steps to form and some freeze thaw for any level of consolidation. Please don't climb at the moment as the turf is definitely not froZen enough but may be coming into marginal condition towards the middle of the coming week.
Headwall routes are freezing up nicely with small amount of rime building up and iced up cracks. Some of the tougher grade 4/5 crack lines will go for adventurous mixed climbers. I had a cheeky solo on the right hand crack which is holding a hook well and the rock is frozen enough to torque.
All in all, looking promising but aside from the headwall will need a few mire days before climbing for the turf an ice steps to freeze and/or snow consolidate.
Couple photos to follow later.
Been up pen y fan for a walk and explore around the n.face to see how things are shaping up this morning. Snow is thin on the ground at the base of the path from the resevoir car park but about half way up water is starting to freeze. Lots of blown snow and on the plateau at the top the north westerly slopes are scouring with small deposits in the lee. Patchy semi frozen turf above about 700m but nothing of note.
Summit is scoured with reasonbly substantial deposits in the path down to storey arms and descnt route to north face.
Gully lines have got reasonable accumulations but will need another week or so of cold temps for the ice steps to form and some freeze thaw for any level of consolidation. Please don't climb at the moment as the turf is definitely not froZen enough but may be coming into marginal condition towards the middle of the coming week.
Headwall routes are freezing up nicely with small amount of rime building up and iced up cracks. Some of the tougher grade 4/5 crack lines will go for adventurous mixed climbers. I had a cheeky solo on the right hand crack which is holding a hook well and the rock is frozen enough to torque.
All in all, looking promising but aside from the headwall will need a few mire days before climbing for the turf an ice steps to freeze and/or snow consolidate.
Couple photos to follow later.
Friday, 26 November 2010
SNOW!
So, although I accept this post is completely pre-emptive, this years winter season may well be on its way. With the recent cold snap and snow all over the country, the first flakes have begun to fall in the valleys and if the weather forecast is anything to go by for the next two weeks, it might not be all that long before the local water features start forming.
About time I started this blog again, so I'll keep it updated with any news and info on weather, conditions, access and ice. I'll be out a lot and will keep updated with my own reports and photos but as with last year it would be fantastic if you could keep your own coming in which will of course be published on here for everyone to see.
This is the kind of forecast I like to see - http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/7days.asp?zipcode=merthyr%20tydfil
Bring it on.
About time I started this blog again, so I'll keep it updated with any news and info on weather, conditions, access and ice. I'll be out a lot and will keep updated with my own reports and photos but as with last year it would be fantastic if you could keep your own coming in which will of course be published on here for everyone to see.
This is the kind of forecast I like to see - http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/7days.asp?zipcode=merthyr%20tydfil
Bring it on.
Friday, 15 January 2010
Bad News
Joe's Waterfall is melting fast, so we can assume so is Virgin Falls. RAC Corner is very wet now, so we can assume so is Craig-y-Llyn. And on Pen-Y-Fan, the lower sections of turf are no longer rock solid. Roads are turning to slush and the Beacons are turning brown.
It's a sad day for all of south wales.
It's a sad day for all of south wales.
Thursday, 14 January 2010
The Thaw Has Struck
Despite the fresh dump of snow and still cold temperature at night, it seems the thaw is starting to take it's toll. Things won't be climbable for much longer, so get out whilst you still can!
Just got this sent through by Matt Cope.
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Popped up to RAC Corner this morning (only had a few hours and
couldn't risk the roads to Torpantau or similar). Lots of snow in
drifts but the A470 is clear. Quite a bit of snow overlying the ice,
but not enough to hide the fact that it's melting quickly. Lots of
running water and the right hand line on the bottom step is now rather
gripping at the top - with rock showing most of the way across.
It won't be climbable for long.
Cheers
Matt
Just got this sent through by Matt Cope.
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Popped up to RAC Corner this morning (only had a few hours and
couldn't risk the roads to Torpantau or similar). Lots of snow in
drifts but the A470 is clear. Quite a bit of snow overlying the ice,
but not enough to hide the fact that it's melting quickly. Lots of
running water and the right hand line on the bottom step is now rather
gripping at the top - with rock showing most of the way across.
It won't be climbable for long.
Cheers
Matt
Wednesday, 13 January 2010
A470 Closed
The A470 is closed and blocked bewteen Merthyr and Brecon. Along with the closure of the road to Treherbert to Hirwaun road and the road to Virgin Falls, that takes the three main climbing areas out of action. Bad times.
UPDATE
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The A470 is now re-open.
UPDATE
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The A470 is now re-open.
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