tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9270310236143653752024-03-12T19:41:22.531-07:00South Wales WinterThis page was set up during the winter of 2009-2010 to keep track of the fantastic winter season in South Wales. Tying together reports from UK Climbing, the South Wales Winter facebook group, and email reports, it is maintained and updated by South Wales based climbing instructor and member of CBMRT.org.uk, Ryan. Any contributions are welcomed. All mountain related conjecture is my own and does not necessarily reflect the views of any organization to which I am affiliated.Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.comBlogger50125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-36874321815800396092014-12-26T03:29:00.001-08:002014-12-26T03:29:10.467-08:00Is Winter going to make it this year?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We're all thinking it. Last year was diabolical. I remember once climbing Torpantau in the middle of November and again at the start of April. Not for a while now. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But what a great Christmas Present this year, forecast of a heavy dump of snow in South Wales. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">No we all know forecasts are fickle, but looking at the current Met Office forecast which predicts light snow today (boxing day), Heavy Snow tomorrow. A slight thaw for a day and then a return to colder temperatures, I can't help but hope that if the snow is heavy enough then it might just have chance to consolodate a little in the PyF gullies, and maybe - just maybe - be climbable in the middle of next week. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There's no chance the turf will be frozen, but if enough snow falls... </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Watch this space. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcjx1v0vs</span></div>
Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-68771836543292290272013-12-26T14:54:00.000-08:002013-12-26T14:54:05.721-08:00A ski film about climate change. + Snow in the Beacons. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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On the warm up to winter I just wanted to share this cool video with you all. </div>
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<a href="http://www.outsideonline.com/featured-videos/film-and-trailer-videos/STEPS---Full-Film.html?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=facebookpost#"><span class="s2">Steps - A Ski film about climate change</span></a></span></div>
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It's a wicked film, and totally free to watch, about winter sports and climate change. Some inspirational models of how we can all minimise our impact in the mountains and in our lives. </div>
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Now that's out of the way...</div>
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YES - there is snow in the Brecon Beacons</div>
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NO - There aren't any frozen ice falls, it's not been nearly cold enough for long enough</div>
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Quick write up from Pete Spearing here on the conditions underfoot on PyF. </div>
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</span>'Snow had drifted quite deep by this morning and lower down where it was an older fall (Christmas Eve? ) it had even hardened to what is about the closest to neve we get round here though at this height the ground was a long way short of frozen with little more than an icy crust.<br />
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Higher up the were patches of slab and the main face and gulleys were well banked out but still with patches of of softer ground beneath though lots better than lower down. If tonight's front passes quick enough before the rain strips everything and we then get a decent dip in temperature it could be looking good. Unfortunately that is two very big ifs.'</div>
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-74405446729569966672013-04-07T06:56:00.001-07:002013-04-07T06:56:43.523-07:00Craig - y - thinUnfortunately, I'm sat at the base of Douglas Gap at craig y llyn as we speak. The ice has rotted and melted out overnight and is falling down on me as I type. I think this may be the end of South Wales Winter<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Some brief notes and pics from Mark Gambold who's been up playing on Craig Cwm Du. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span id=".reactRoot[53].[1][2][1]{comment612197772128437_612253762122838}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0.[0]" style="font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px;"><span id=".reactRoot[53].[1][2][1]{comment612197772128437_612253762122838}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0.[0].[0]">I climbed this morning with Andy Meek at Craig Cwm Du. Had the place to ourselves. Did two amazing routes in excellent condition. First route was the main stream on the far left and was 5 stepped pitches (gr3/4/4/3/3). Second was in middle of crag, a </span></span><span id=".reactRoot[53].[1][2][1]{comment612197772128437_612253762122838}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0.[3]" style="font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px;"><span id=".reactRoot[53].[1][2][1]{comment612197772128437_612253762122838}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0.[3].0"><span id=".reactRoot[53].[1][2][1]{comment612197772128437_612253762122838}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0.[3].0.[0]">tough 40m single pitch gr4. You will need about 8 ice screws, slings etc but no nuts, warhogs or pitons. Loads of ice routes/features there. Plenty to do. Ice still solid when we left at 2pm and will be in nic tomorrow. Had a fantastic day! </span></span></span><span style="font-size: 11px; line-height: 14px;">The quality of ice for south wales was amazing today! Dont waste tomorrow!!!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thanks for the update Mark. Keep them coming all! </span></div>
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-11435364699355610042013-04-04T03:57:00.003-07:002013-04-04T03:57:34.208-07:00Ice in South Wales... A belated April Fool?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Excellent update in from David Linnet. Thanks David! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">I love working for the University of Bristol because they obviously recognize the quality of their employee’s work and sometimes give them an extra Bank Holiday day off or two… ;-) So what to do and where to go? According to the usual climbing forums there were still ice routes formed and being climbed on April 1st in the Brecon Beacons and in the blinkin’ sun! Surely this was an elaborate hoax or a belated April Fool? Well whatever it definitely merited investigation and along with James Pomeroy <span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;"> and his lovely new Pomobile we ventured over the bridge and found ice! Firstly we climbed a delightful Grade III called “Joe’s Waterfall” with lots of crazynuts ice umbrellas at Fan Hir near Camarthen Fan. Then a quick relocation to Crag y Llyn to have a poke around another Grade III called “The Weeping Wall” was then duly called for. Alas the main section of this fall was not fully formed so after a mutual agreement that discretion is the better part of valour, a quick ab off and a hasty retreat to the fast-food van for cheeseburgers and tea for calorie replenishment was implemented so happy days! :-)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Weeping Wall - Craig y Llyn</span></div>
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-46208176782037085772013-04-04T01:33:00.001-07:002013-04-04T01:33:08.905-07:00Latest Conditions<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Latest brief reports of conditions from all over: </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Craig-y-llyn</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Douglas Gap and Iron Claws in (4/4/13) but thinning. Conditions still pretty baltic.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Virgin Falls</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Formed but thin and rotten. Un-climbable (3/4/13)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Cwmyoy</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not in (3/4/13)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Torpantau</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In but melting/softening ice with running water behind central ice and brittle in places (4/4/13)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Joes Fall</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In, exact conditions uncertain other than lots of umbrellas (2/3/13)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>RAC Corner</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In, exact conditions uncertain (3/3/13)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Pen - Y - Fan</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Turf frozen. Solid base. Powdery and windblown over the top. Paths very icy (3/3/13)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If anyone has any updates or knows differently please email to ryanatkins09 (at) gmail (dot) com</span><br />
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-86633174782617816562013-04-02T13:37:00.001-07:002013-04-02T13:43:53.207-07:00Craig - y - Llyn and Cwm Du<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These great reports and photos in from Tom Gibbison who's been out at both Craig Y Llyn and Cwm Du over the bank holiday weekend. Photos are copyright <span style="font-size: 13px;">Peter Derrett</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 13px;"><span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Good Friday</span>: I’d heard of an icefall over in Cwm Du (over the hill from Craig Cerrig Gleisiad) a few years ago. With a long weekend pending and Torpantau looking like it was going to have queues to rival a Cypriot cashpoint I persuaded my brother Ben and his mate Pete to come and check it out. The fall was in great nick and gave us two long and three short pitches of grade 3. At one point Ben commented that “This is better ice then the Ice Factor” and I couldn’t disagree, first time placements were the order of the day. It’s a lovely valley and we didn’t see a single person until the walk out. A cracking route – better and longer then Torpantau in my (entirely subjective) book.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Easter Monday</span>: Craig y Llyn: On Monday we decided to check out Craig y Llyn. My Bro was working nights, so we enlisted a replacement in the small but perfectly formed shape of Jimbo, who seemed determined to kill himself by using a rather Heath-Robinson looking pair of home made axes. Leaving </span><span lang="EN-GB">Bristol</span><span lang="EN-GB"> we were concerned that it was a bit warm as it hadn’t frozen overnight. Pulling up in the layby at the crag our concerns proved to be entirely unfounded, the earth was rock hard and the wind was bitter. There were only really two lines formed up, Douglas Gap and Iron Claws. We didn’t have a guide, so went straight for the tallest fall (turned out to be Iron Claws), it was stood at the bottom of this we noticed the big ice umbrellas on the top pitch. Jimbo had the scent of gnarl in his nostrils, and it took me some time to persuade him that we should warm up on Douglas Gap first. Some warm up! The first pitch was steep and very brittle, quite a surprise after the lovely plastic ice on Friday, all the more surprising was the fact that Jimbo’s home made axes seemed to work quite well. The rest of the route was easier, so we finished it quickly, abbed down the mankiest piece of cliff I’ve ever seen and went over to Iron Claws. Up close the ice umbrellas were even more crazy than they looked from the bottom. By the time I’d arrived at the stance at the bottom Pete and Jimbo had spotted a runnel leading right up under the biggest umbrella, where a neat sidestep under a rock overhang would take us round the side. This strategy was pretty successful with good ice and bomber turf just where you needed them most. We had to dodge the top 10 feet of the fall but there’s no way we were touching those umbrellas. Another quality pitch. Past about </span><span lang="EN-GB">2pm</span><span lang="EN-GB"> it was absolutely baltic, the easterly was howling up the gully and we were wearing our belay jackets to climb in. A cup of tea from the snack van at the top sorted us all out for the drive home. Happy days.</span></span></span></div>
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-73385661784166654822013-03-28T08:18:00.001-07:002013-03-28T08:18:40.566-07:00Torpantau ReportPete Spearing just sent this detailed report of the conditions on Torpantau yesterday. <br />
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bottom steps thin with running water but climbable with care. Main pitch almost dry with good ice, top step of this (to my mind always the crux) again a little thin with overhanging chandeliers on all but three left where there is enough good ice although steep. Loads of good ice up the left bank at the to of this pitch for a screw belay. Final 'pitch'as usual fat with chewy ice and a reasonable solo as are the last few little steps.Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-48418569720156779762013-03-27T07:01:00.002-07:002013-03-27T07:01:13.154-07:00Torpantau is in...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">... that's it, someones said it. Torpantau is in. Whilst I'm enjoying the fine countryside of Taunton all weekend, try to save some ice for me when I get back. Report and photos hopefully coming later this evening. </span></div>
Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-46191243527769081012013-03-26T07:35:00.001-07:002013-03-26T09:13:41.957-07:00Is it in? Isn't it in?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Well with snow a-plenty and cold temps lingering still (http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Pen-Y-Fan/forecasts/886) There's a lot of talk about whether things are or aren't in. From first hand reports I've heard, of which it must be said there aren't many, stuff is forming. There's an awful lot of snow up around the horseshoe and ice is forming in places although was still a bit thin on the weekend. All winter walkers would be advised to take crampons. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As usual, a lot of focus is on Torpantau - it should be noted that road from the south up near the Neuadd reservoir is IMPASSABLE under current conditions without 4x4, snowchains, and/or a certain level of tenacity. Your best bet without 1 or all 3 of the above would be a walk in over the tops. The difficulty isn't in getting there so much as getting back out of the dip in the road by the cafe, if you get that far you risk getting stuck in the bottom unable to get up the hill in front, or back the way you came. I speak from 3 hours of ice-axe-adze-road-ice-chipping experience a few years ago...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Putting on my mountain rescue hat, it should be pointed out that we've been very active of late with 5 callout's last week all relating to the cold weather. Be careful of slips and falls and PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE take appropriate clothing and emergency gear and know how to use it. These are tough yet potentially very rewarding conditions.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Please get in touch with any photos or conditions reports to ryanatkins09 (at) gmail (dot) com. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b style="background-color: white;">From Phil on Facebook... </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I managed to drive all the way to Neuadd yesterday (I have snow tyres). It may be possible to drive to the Torpantau car park but could be risky with ordinary tyres. However the walk from Birch Grove car park doesn't take too long. There is lots of ice around the Pen y Fan horseshoe so I think there is likely to be ice for climbing in most of the usual venues.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>From Mal on the weekend...</b></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 17px;">Very poor visibility and the fact that paths are snowed out means that navigation is very interesting up there at the moment. The snow around the peaks is very windblown leaving some solid ice patches which require crampons. Elsewhere, a weak crust forming on deeper snow is making the going quite strenuous.</span></span><br />
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-56367562501863822542013-01-21T02:03:00.003-08:002013-01-21T02:03:23.973-08:00Torpantau is in<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Masterplan Photography chaps have been out on Torpantau this weekend along with a couple of others, reporting good conditions if a little lean on the lower falls. Snow chains or 4 wheel drive absolutely necessary for approach. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px;">Just back from a brilliant day on Torpantu, low down was a bit thin but the main fall was in good shape, used snow chains to access the car park from talybont and wouldn't have been able to get up without them</span><br style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px;" /><a href="http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/01/ice-climbing-torpantu-falls" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: white; color: #336699; font-size: 13px;" target="_blank" title="Ice Climbing at Torpantu Falls | MasterPlan Photography">http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/01/ice-climbing-torpantu-falls</a></span></div>
Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-24226669398641714322013-01-20T05:20:00.003-08:002013-01-20T05:20:38.354-08:00Conditions update and important notice!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So snow has fallen across South Wales, but unfortunately the conditions updates aren't promising.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This in yesterday from David Webster...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ok conditions update. Went to rac corner/Craig y fro this afternoon, most turf was well frozen from the road upwards if you could find it under the powder! We climbed the main stream, the first pitch was climb able on the left of the steepest ice pillar at about grade 2, the pillar wasn't fully formed yet but should be good in a day or 2 if nobody knocks it down b4! The top pitch was to delicate so we walked around it, it had been climbed today but we would have destroyed it if we had done it. We then went and climbed the micro route I named white fang last year which was climbable but again delicate. Finally rac corner was forming but very thin and although there were doable problems, it is in danger of being damaged before it is fully formed. Took some photos will try and post them on the Facebook group.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">thanks Dave.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Also hearing reports from pen y fan north face that the snow fell so much and so quickly it has insulated the turf which isn't fully frozen.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If the temperatures stay low we should see RAC corner and Craig y Lyn coming in over the next few days with any luck but I'd recommend staying away from turf routes or you risk damaging the environment and yourself.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Torpantau road is reported to be impassible although if I get chance this week ill crack out the snow chains and try get down to check it out. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">PLEASE NOTE:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Saturday afternoon saw a major rescue effort from three of South Wales mountain rescue teams including CBMRT of which I'm a part of. Access to storey arms was blocked by vehicles parked on the road and grass verges delaying access by our rescue teams and ambulances. Subsequently Dyfed Powys police have put out a warning notice to park responsibly in the area. Please be considerate of emergency service access wherever you park, particularly during the winter months where time becomes even more of an issue due to extreme weather. </span><br />
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-66973035832729734942013-01-16T01:50:00.002-08:002013-01-16T01:52:27.995-08:00Winter on it's way?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So, talk abounds of winter being imminently on it's way. Is it true? Quite possible. Does this mean you should go climb something this week. Probably not! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bear in mine that Ice. Is. Delicate. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sure it might be climable before the week is out. But if everyone flocks to it then, it won't last long. Far better to wait for some slightly fatter ice/rimed up rock and allow everyone to have some fun. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I would make an educated guess that ice routes would potentially be climbable this weekend and that the P-y-F headwall and rib lines will be in also. That's educated in the sense that I've been up and looked at them. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm not sure that there will be enough snow in the gullies, or what there is almost certainly won't be consolidated. Remember these gullies are NORTH FACING and deep clefts. Thus, they get little sunlight and with the consistent sub zero temperatures up there this means barely any freeze thaw. So please, be sensible. If you can see exposed vegetation and rock, and you're sinking in fluffy powder, maybe stick to the ribs/butresses. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now I know in reality this will make almost no difference posting this. Keen winter warriors from all accross the south of the UK will be flocking to the beacons on Saturday morning to climb whatever they can. But I guess it's my hope that if just one or two people read this and climb sensibly, there might at least be more left for everyone to share and enjoy. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whilst we're on it, a quick plug. Stay safe out there! At a member of central beacons mountain rescue team www.cbmrt.org.uk, I'm all too aware of how quickly the weather can change and what can one moment be a clearly defined footpath can turn into a blind whiteout. Take a map. Take a compass. Know how to use them. And if you do one thing for me, when you're walking back down to pont ar daf and hit the windy col -turn right! Forward will take you straight down the Neuadd, and given recent events, I can promise you the bogs down there are a bitch to go a-wandering in.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Climb safe. Climb sensible. And here's a nice photo to get you excited. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyCrjxh4ZQ-pfzph43XF11b6sz5uCP4lUF27ALY8D5PV0zodpS8V7XZ7u_SY7wKycCvBg3XxsTVAw6o3UbschjbMqKcwWoq37lK-8-50v0cg_ZdpI2TxyaW5Y5b5tnfOCLw5HWcyhpWq0/s1600/398009_10151372981622970_1576768654_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyCrjxh4ZQ-pfzph43XF11b6sz5uCP4lUF27ALY8D5PV0zodpS8V7XZ7u_SY7wKycCvBg3XxsTVAw6o3UbschjbMqKcwWoq37lK-8-50v0cg_ZdpI2TxyaW5Y5b5tnfOCLw5HWcyhpWq0/s640/398009_10151372981622970_1576768654_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Looking across the NF Gullies on Sunday late afternoon. </span></td></tr>
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-33118412007242839002012-12-17T03:20:00.005-08:002012-12-17T03:20:45.509-08:00It's all melted<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Put your tools away and get back to reading about Scotland. It's all melted with no reports of anything having come into climbable condition. Ah well. It's still early in the season. Fingers crossed for January! </span></div>
Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-29821075918122558662012-12-12T05:53:00.004-08:002012-12-12T05:54:50.745-08:00NF Pen - y - Fan - unclimable<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This just in from Matt Woodfield... </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4f81bd; font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;">Went up pen y fan 1st thing this morning for a look at the NE face. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #4f81bd; font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;">Dropped down to far right gully, water is flowing </span><span style="color: #4f81bd; font-family: Verdana;">under the the ice thats formed. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #4f81bd; font-family: Verdana;">There was some frozen turf, but only</span><span style="color: #4f81bd; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span style="color: #4f81bd; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10pt;">in</span><span style="color: #4f81bd; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10pt;"> patches in the base of th</span><span style="color: #4f81bd; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10pt;">e gully. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #4f81bd; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10pt;">The very top 20m had good solid snow, but not the rest of the face. W</span><span style="color: #4f81bd; font-family: Verdana;">as a nice day for a walk, but no chance of climbing.</span></div>
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-51971658430725540802012-12-12T02:42:00.000-08:002012-12-12T02:46:56.281-08:00Patience and protection<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So, with all the excitement and talk all over the internet at the moment and speculation as to the condition of routes high up in the Beacons, there's been many a mention of people being happy to climb anything and so super keen to get out that they're not too fussed about frozen turf. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whilst this is great enthusiasm, I would urge you all to be patient for a number of reasons. It is true that it's been very cold up in the mountains of late: http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/wl/sennybridge_latest_weather.html </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But for the icefalls to come into climbable nick they need a good week of sub zero temperatures. Whilst they would be climbable before this, being the most southern winter routes in the UK, they attract a lot of attention. Hoardes of enthusiastic winter warriors kicking their way up partly formed ice falls will at best, delay the forming and spoil the experience for everyone else, and at worst (particularly in areas such as Craig-y-Llyn, one of the first venues to come in) damage and destroy rare plant life and fauna and jeopardize future access.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Similar can be said of the North Face of Pen - Y - Fan. Whilst it's a choss fest no one in their right mind would go near in the summer, it also happens to a natural environment to a lot of varied biology. If it's too cold, consistently, snow won't consolidate and you run the risk of damaging the rock and turf underneath, not to mention your own legs when you inevitably stab your thigh with a crampon when you fall in to your waist. Conversely, too much snow too quickly will mean that the turf isn't frozen and the route and plants that live on it could be damaged irreparably. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I would therefore urge you all to be patient and protective of our valuable environment and the climbs in it which we are privileged to have access to. If you haven't already, please read this: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/north-wales-white-guide</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Whilst it's specific to North Wales, much of the content is applicable down south too, and any conscientious winter climber should care about what it says. So please, wait it out. Give it chance to form, and don't just grab your axes and wage war on the routes the second they have a speckle of dust on them. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Those looking for good conditions, you'd be well advised to check it out early Friday morning for your best bet. I'll be going up Thursday night for a recce I think. Most likely venues given current conditions would be RAC Corner, Craig - Y - Llyn and possible Torpantau. There is unlikely to be enough snow to make the North Face routes climable. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Peace out and please email conditions reports and photos through to ryanatkins09 (at) gmail (dot) com. </span><br />
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-67917597677603062092012-12-08T10:42:00.001-08:002012-12-08T10:42:45.379-08:00Conditions updateThe following rather unsurprising report in from Colin. It's going to need a good few days and nights of sub zero yet for the ice to form and some daytime thawing for the gullys to be anywhere near consolidated. In happier news, I'm posting this in front of a log fire in North Wales having just climbed torquing shit on clogwyn du:<br />
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Inspected NE face of Pen-Y-Fan this morning, traversing in at mid-height into Central Gully (?). Snow conditions reasonable quantity but unconsolidated; turf unfrozen in 99.73% of cases; ice, what there was, not bonding to rock. Diagnosis - needs several more cold nights and day temps not to rise too high. Might be worth a look on Thursday as the advance forecast for the next few days is favorable but go early in the morning to get the best results<br />
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-74167913933306557272012-11-06T04:55:00.001-08:002012-11-06T05:00:02.055-08:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Winter is a-coming... </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That's right. It's getting colder. Nights are getting earlier. Frost is building up on my impressively-bad-at-heat-conducting windscreen. Ice is on it's way - I hope. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There's snow atop Pen Y Fan. (Come on, a little bit at least). Kinder Downfall is rumoured to be in the best nick it's been in for centuries.... (slight fib perhaps). And there's a buzz about South Wales' winter climbers in anticipation for what will hopefully be a very cold season. With all the rainfall this summer, the ground is nicely saturated and runoff is high, which should - in theory - lead to some nice fat ice conditions if it gets cold enough. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Watch this space.... maybe whilst sharpening your axes. </span></div>
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Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-5415301736604140632012-02-03T03:57:00.000-08:002012-02-03T04:01:19.437-08:00Friday Round UpSo, what's being done?<br /><br />Reports are coming in far and wide of conditions on the North Face of Pen Y Fan. The snow is unconsolidated but seeing a lot of traffic with lines becoming compacted. Ice is thin in all gullies but fattening up with the main mixed steps in central providing some interest. The headwall is rimed up nicely and passable. Turf solidly frozen.<br /><br />RAC corner is on its way in with lines being climbed yesterday up the line of least resistance at around scottish 2. The exciting pillar at the base is yet to form and the top step should probably be avoided in its current state, however there are apparently interesting mixed options on either side.<br /><br />Crag-Y-Llyn is rumored to be coming in slowly, with views from afar.<br /><br />I will be out tomorrow exploring the torpantau situation followed by a jaunt up the north face and a trundle over to RAC corner for some ice bouldering. Will report back with photos.<br /><br />Please keep conditions reports coming in people! It looks to be warming up again by saturday evening so if you want out; out now!Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-39736232025747533622012-02-01T01:10:00.000-08:002012-02-01T01:30:48.341-08:00Ice Ice BabySo isn't this exciting. The first bucket test of the year is a success....<br /><br />The bucket test being - when I leave a bucket outside my back door overnight, full of water, and find it in the morning full of ice - chances are it's a bit on the chilly side up in the mountains.<br /><br />Talk abounds all over the forums and facebook at the moment of people hoping gullies will be in condition and wondering what knarl they can go at towards the later stages of these week. So perhaps time for a few pointers...<br /><br />There is snow on Pen-y-Fan, there is snow in the gullies, it is powdery.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Simple snow facts, lesson one... </span><br /><br />Snow falls as unconsolidated powder, this of course means that all gullies are slosh fests, and although on occasion fun, they're not really 'in' condition. Unfortunately, the Gods do not bless us enough to allow Neve to fall from the heavens. Not that we ever really have true Neve in South Wales. But really, for gullies such as those on the North Face of Pen-y-Fan to come into condition, we need a bit of freeze thaw, to allow the snow crystals to melt and then rebond as a more compact and solid snowpack. Unfortunately, this freeze thaw rarely happens in South Wales, and the snow is unlikely to stay there long enough for it to compress and establish itself through gravity alone. Whilst it is true that the daytime sub zero's and the overnight drops on the high ground do lead to a nice crunchy solid crust, this is highly unlikely to be stable enough to climb on so much as fall through. Gop.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The gullies of South Wales and Frozen Turf...<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></span>So, the gullies and ridge routes of South Wales (such as central gully and central rib on PyF) are still regularly climbable in winter conditions. From snow lesson number one you'll appreciate that the snow is not often in condition however the advantage comes from the fact that these routes are primarily frozen turf choss fests. Which is in fact a lot more fun than it sounds. Problem at the moment is likely to be that the turf underneath the snow may not be frozen. Because the snow came quite suddenly, after a period of mild weather, it is possible that it will have insulated the ground before it had chance to thoroughly freeze, leading to only partially frozen turf. That said, much of the steeper sections in the gullies struggle to cling on to snow, especially on the few mixed steps in central gully, meaning exposed turf will by this point almost certainly be frozen. Thumbs Up! Watch out for those delicate patches of vegetation and un-bonded rock, however. Although specific to North Wales, tootle over to the BMC website and check out there new white is right guide, for some tips and pointers about how to protect the winter environment.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Rime! on the headwall<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></span>For the more seasoned amongst us who fancy a bit of excitement on the headwall of Pen-Y-Fan, the good news is that when it's cold and there is snow and moisture blowing about in the air, the headwall very very quickly comes into climbable condition. Thanks to the prevailing north easterlies over the park the headwall gets blasted with all manner of sticky icy frozen water stuff which builds up a nice layer of axe attracting rime. So go out and have some fun kids!<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Ice - the real good news!<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span></span>Water ice, in South Wales?! Yes thats right. There are a number of waterfalls in south wales that come into condition after a good cold snap - usually around 5-7 days of sub zero temperatures. If you follow the temperature of Merthyr, and chop off a few degrees, that's usually a good indicator as to what it's been like up at the storey arms. Most notable of these falls are RAC Corner or Craig-y-Fro, just past the Storey Arms and up on the hillside, Roadside easy ice cragging that is very popular and usually takes around 5 days to form into a climbable condition. Previous winters have seen it offer some interesting variations including a short but sweet WI3 pillar at the bottom and a short vertical section to top out with some fun little steps in between. Best of all is Torpantau, the jewel in South Wales water ice crown, 2-3 pitches of steep, steppy, mushroomed scottish 3, pure ice. After a week of sub zero it's usually fat enough to take long screws and give a fantastic outing. Take plenty of screws though and a couple of bulldogs, as rock protection is scarce and there have been a number of accidents or near misses.<br /><br />PLEASE REMEMBER - Water Ice is delicate. Don't hack it up and smash it up, taking out large chunks and pillars, and leave it in as best condition as you can for the next ascent. Due to them being the most southerly of winter climbs in the UK, they get a lot of traffic from Wales and abroad.<br /><br /><br /><br />Have fun out there kids! And stay safe!<br />http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Winter_Climbs#The_Brecon_Beacons<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><br /></span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><br /></span>Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-36237021926083792302011-12-21T11:07:00.000-08:002011-12-21T11:09:44.544-08:00First Rotue of the Season?So, It might not be icy as such yet, but there's certainly been a lot of snow about, and it seems Up and Under's Andy Foster has been out new routing - completing an alternative finish to a current line on pen-y-fan that he's had his eye on for two years. Fantastic work!<br /><br /><h6 class="uiStreamMessage" ft="{"type":1}"><span class="messageBody" ft="{"type":3}">------</span></h6><h6 class="uiStreamMessage" ft="{"type":1}"><span class="messageBody" ft="{"type":3}">2 Years after first spotting the line it is done. Have just got back from putting up a new route on the North Face of Pen Y Fan<br /><br />Whilst Down Under V, 6<br />Climb Near Right Gully (II) up to the head wall. Instead of traversing to the left to climb up the frozen turf position your self under the furthest most rock buttress on the head wall. There is a big shield of rock (get a rope tread behind this f...or the belay) then climb with difficulty up the off width crack to a small over hang. Get good axe placements and swing round on to the blank shield (really small edges for crampons). Place a crucial No 1 wire then go for the top via some dice hook and turf placements.<br />Done 20/12/11 Andrew Foster and Micheal Napier</span></h6><h6 class="uiStreamMessage" ft="{"type":1}"><span><span class="messageBody" ft="{"type":3}"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/380544_10150462238494927_504399926_8061002_91324081_n.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 720px; height: 539px;" src="http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/380544_10150462238494927_504399926_8061002_91324081_n.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a></span></span></h6>Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-84621335174343701732011-12-17T15:12:00.000-08:002011-12-17T15:17:42.909-08:00Chilly things!So apparently, there's some snow in the Brecon Beacons. I wouldn't know for sure as I haven't been there yet. But last night I fell over in the car park during an unrelaxing visit to a relaxing spa hotel up Caerphilly way- I put it down to there being ice on the pavement.<br /><br />This to me seems a good counterpart to the bucket-of-water-outside-the-back-door test. The test results showed positive. The resulting conclusion - it's probably been chilly up high in the mountains. Although don't get too excited, it has almost certainly not been chilly enough for long enough for anything to form.<br /><br />That said, I saw a pretty photograph of Hirwaun this morning and it certainly looks snowy up that way. Perhaps a nice walk in the snow would be in order tomorrow?<br /><br />I'm on my way to North Wales tomorrow evening so I'll poke my head out the window on the way past pen - y - fan and let you know if my eyelids freeze instantly shut.Ryanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11792634047481432624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-69149679239346562432011-12-07T03:34:00.000-08:002011-12-07T03:35:07.650-08:00NB - DepressionJust a warning, I've just realised by this time last year that we'd already had a good session or two on Torpantau and RAC and the like, so if you don't want to get depressed thinking what could have been, stick to this years posts.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-23859010161845746752011-12-07T03:13:00.000-08:002011-12-07T05:57:33.972-08:00New season, New routes, New attack plan, New guide.So with the first smatterings of powder gracing the hills of North Wales this past week, I thought it was about time to rekindle things down this way with a fabulously speculative and entirely unfounded amount of excitement about winter conditions in South Wales. <br /><br />The last 3 years have seen some incredible winter conditions up in the valleys and mountains of South Wales and there is no doubt that this is an exceptional occurance, however we can but live in optimism of such fantastic conditions prevailing again this year. <br /><br />Over the past few years many old routes have been re-opened, as it were, and seen an awful lot of little publicised ascents such as Virgin Falls and some of the tougher, thinner lines at Craig-Y-Llyn. However the question remains - what is left. Undoubtedly the numerous mountainsides of the south wales valleys hold a huge number of waterfalls, all of which, given the correct conditions, have the chance to freeze up and provide some fantastic sport. So for me, something big this year is exploration and watching, I'm very keen to see if now that the established winter classics such a torpantau and central gully on Pen Y Fan have been reborn, whether the collective mass of adventurous winter enthusiasts can come up with anything new. <br />What's out there waiting to be discovered..? <br /><br />The new guide for South Wales is now also in much awaited production with the finishing touches being added. If anyone has any photos they think might be useful please get in touch with Steven Delaney at SWMC. Isn't that exciting - some new guidebook porn to drool over on those pointlessly wet and slightly too warm winter days in the office - staring out of the window and becoming increasingly impressed that the only white stuff in sight are the clouds - and they're more of a manky grey anyway. I digress. Guidebook - Woooop! <br /><br />Fantastic conditions is of course, a subjective term. Those of you who live in Cardiff will be well aware that the population en-masse appear to be entirely incompetant at driving when it comes to dry and warm conditions, and from previous experience, 3 mm of snow on the road means all but the climbers amongst us seem to go skidding and sliding about everywhere - what is it that people don't understand about high gears and the fact that simply stamping on the accelerator to get yourself out of a slippy spot just won't work. That said, those of us capable of leaving the confines of our cul-de-sac or navigating the precarious winter hazard that is Cathays Crossroads (M8?) are bound to find more challenging conditions further up in the hills - particularly the notoriously impassable road to Torpantau (see my previous blog post about the time I nearly ended up upside down in a ditch in a landrover at 2 in the morning having failed to reach the car park - fun was had by all). It is for this reason that this year I am prepared for a fight. New winter tyres on a new car, with a set of snow chains in the boot for emergencys and my avi shovel to save myself from spending 2 hours chipping away at the pack ice with my adze... aint nothin' gonna stop me hitting the ice. <br /><br />Bring it, winter.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-927031023614365375.post-47593585706808275502010-12-01T03:09:00.000-08:002010-12-01T03:11:54.895-08:00Round UpSorry I've been out of posting for a while, had a few days heavy work. Here's a round up of conditions... <br /><br />From 'oldstringbag' (UKC)<br /><br />---------<br />SAT 28th. In reply to tipsy: We thrashed up an easy gully at Craig Carig Glasiad just north of Story arms, the veg was well frozen but would be better if we had a little more snow. Some melt a freeze is needed to bring this crag into best climbable nic. We drove past Craig Y Llyn on the way home and this looked to be more promising.<br />SUN 29th. We did a mixed line up the central depression at The Darren above Cwmyoy.We had an early start to avoid the sun which hits the crag by lunch time. It was 1V. We absailed down Son of Koflack which was forming nicly although the afternoon sun is a killer. The most left hand gully will be in by next wkend if nights stay cold.<br /><br /><br /><br />From Sunday, thanks to Josh Waller<br /><br />---------<br /><br />Was up at RAC yesterday, not climbable, still far too much running water. The top section of the last pitch has frozen over nicely, and the bottom of the last ptich it starting to come together. Was about -3 up there at around 2pm. Practised v-threads on a flatish bit of ice rather than actual climbing. We left the hanging stuff how it was to give it a better chance of forming. I think about 2 days, unless it was particularly cold last night.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />From Tuesday, thanks to Mike Mitchell (UKC)<br /><br />----------<br /><br />Torpantau falls. I was up there today. Conditions are very good. It is formed all the way to the bottom. So good we climbed it Twice. There is twice as much Ice as when I climbed it on 23 Dec last year and its still Nov.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0